Nihonmachi: What To Do and Where in Japantown, San Francisco
In San Francisco, the Buchanan Hotel is the eyes and ears of its historic Japantown neighborhood, also known as nihonmachi. This six block community that sits in the Western Addition district is considered one of the oldest cultural enclaves in the city. After the San Francisco 1906 earthquake, Japantown is where many Japanese people relocated. The story comes with a rich, cultural, war time history that dates to WWII, which then resulted to relocation internment camps around the city and throughout the Bay Area. It wasn’t until the 1960’s that they began rebuilding businesses like the Japan Center Mall, its various specialty shops and authentic restaurants and eateries along with housing for Japanese American residents. That is still what you see in today’s nihonmachi when one enters on Buchanan Street.
We chatted a bit with our friends at the Buchanan Hotel about some of the best local offerings in the neighborhood and understand why it’s still such a special community.
What makes The Buchanan a unique boutique hotel that's different from others in the city?
We take pride in our unique neighborhood location (at the intersection of Japantown and Pacific Heights – quiet, culturally interesting, upscale, charming) and in the spaciousness of our rooms, which are a good 150-200% the size of many downtown hotel rooms in Union Square.
Being situated in the heart of Japantown, name 3 spots that every tourist or even local needs to visit?
My favorites in the neighborhood include (so hard to choose!):
Nijiya Market, a local Japanese grocery store that features interesting produce, fresh sushi for a picnic, and assorted snacks, sweets, and sakes that will introduce the visitor to tasty and interesting new things
Daiso: this “100 Yen Store” retail chain from Japan features a vast array of items for sale ranging from tea drinks to ceramic plates & mugs, toys, beauty products, trash cans, you name it! Unless otherwise marked, all items are $1.50
Nippon-Ya Japanese sweet shop inside the Japan Center Mall, and/or the historic Benkyo-Do manju store across from our hotel. Beyond charming! And the latter dates back to the 1906 earthquake and hosts a variety of locals and visitors alike.
Another sweet-tooth favorite available (cash only!) after 10am Tues-Sat is Yasukochi’s Sweet Stop inside Super Mira corner grocery store. They offer an (in)famous “coffee crunch cake” and slices sell out within an hour most days – though being forced to buy the full-sized cakes that remain isn’t so bad.
The interior design of the reception lobby is very millennial and artist friendly. What's the concept and who designed it?
The entire remodel of the hotel from the prior Hotel Tomo concept was driven by NICOLEHOLLIS in collaboration with our own design team, headed up by the fabulous Ms. Ave Bradley. The lobby features a 3,100-bottle Japanese whiskey bottle chandelier by ARI, a painted mural (behind the front desk) by local artist Kelly Ording, and a whiskey barrel wall by Ed Huetten of “Ed’s Art,” who toasted the darker walls near the elevator and front desk on-site using a torch! The general idea was to combine design elements that reflect both of our neighborhoods here: Oriental rugs, framed oil paintings, and lush leather furniture to tie in Pacific Heights, and then the whiskey features and ceramics plus mural to nod to Japantown, albeit in a much more subtle and sophisticated way that the previous hotel’s anime and neon look did.
Describe the neighborhood locals and how they connect to The Buchanan?
This is hard to do, of course, since there are so many different locals, and I hate to summarize them too simply. In general, the Japantown demographic of residents skews a little older and more Japanese-American than the SF average, and those who have lived her for decades value the protection and enjoyment/appreciation of Japanese cultural experiences (ranging from karaoke to dining, shopping, etc.). They appreciate the tranquility of the neighborhood, and how the sophisticated and clean design of the Buchanan reflects this vibe. Many locals flock to the on-site (third-party) restaurant, Mums, which is now run by the second generation, still serving Japanese- and American-inspired favorites, three meals per day, with famous shabu shabu (Japanese hot-pot cooking at the table). (At this time, our lovely interior courtyard is hidden from the public, and reachable only via guest key card during daytime hours.)
If you could set up the itinerary for an out-of-towner visiting Japantown for the first time, what would you schedule from morning until night?
Above gives some ideas. I’d definitely recommend breakfast at Sweet Maple or the Hollywood Café (the former if they want to enjoy best-ever “Millionaires’ Bacon” and the latter if they want really great food with less of a line, and still a family-run, local charm). For a more European-size breakfast to start the day, the Fillmore Bakeshop is also near the Buchanan (closed Mondays), and their pastries are amazing!
After that, it’s all about exploring shops and restaurants. On the edge of Japantown, there is also a neat (mostly Chinese) tea shop for tasting and buying on Sutter near Steiner called Song.
It can be fun to compare matcha teas and ramen spots available.
Karaoke usually kicks off at or after dinner time. Playground is a Korean-American spot with related bites (and of course drinks!) and then Festa is a bit bigger, more of a sing-on-stage experience.
Keep in mind guests / visitors can also enjoy the AMC Theater (formerly the Sundance Kabuki Cinema) at Post and Fillmore, where it’s possible to reserve your extra-comfy seat and bring a real cocktail into your show. (Further North up Fillmore Street, the more fringe-style Clay Street Theater is another movie option available nearby.) On the South flank of Jtown, guests can also enjoy live music, esp. at The Fillmore and/or The Boom Boom Room, both really popular venues.
Follow @thebuchanansf.
*model Alexa Wilson
GOBY.CO
